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Cumbria orchid

Cumbria orchid

Cambria (lat. Cambria) is an artificially bred hybrid that does not occur in natural conditions. The following types of orchids are used for crossing: Oncidium, Miltonia, Brassia, Odontoglossum, Kohlioda and others.

Cumbria can be distinguished by the following general characteristics: rounded pseudobulbs, narrow and long leaves, sympoidal (shoot) growth.

The flowers of this orchid can be very diverse in shape (star-shaped, rounded), size (from 1 to 10 cm) and color.

The most common colors: yellow, brown, red, purple.

Other names for Cumbria: Asterisk Orchid.

Cumbria are popular hybrids:

  • Beallara - obtained by crossing the orchids Brassia, Miltonia, Cochlioda and Odontoglossum.
  • Burrageara (Burrageara) - hybrid with the participation of orchids Kohlioda, Miltonia, Odontoglossum and Oncidium.
  • Colmanara (Colmanara) is a hybrid obtained by crossing the Miltonia, Odontoglossum and Oncidium orchids.
  • Miltonidium (Miltonidium) - obtained by crossing the Miltonia and Oncidium orchids.
  • Miltassia is a hybrid with Miltonia and Brassia orchids.

Cambria - Care

Cambria is unpretentious in care, hybrids under this trade name are specially bred for growing in an apartment. Maintenance requirements for all hybrids called "Cambria" are approximately the same: they like bright diffused light, are not demanding on humidity and air temperature.

Lighting. Place Cambria in a bright place, but not in direct sunlight. In the summer, the orchid can get burns, from which its leaves turn yellow, so if the flower stands near the south or southeast window, shade it with tulle (gauze), or better, remove it to the west or east window.

In winter, with a lack of lighting, the orchid should be placed in the brightest place, and if necessary, supplemented with phytolamps for 10-12 hours. If the cambria is at rest, no additional light is required.

Temperature. Cumbria thrives at temperatures between 16 and 21˚C. Although this orchid is thermophilic, too high a temperature, especially in summer, will harm it. She does not need a night temperature fluctuation or may be small, within 3-5˚C. The difference stimulates the formation of inflorescences, but is not decisive.

In winter, the temperature should not drop below 14-16˚C, regardless of whether the flower is dormant or blooming luxuriantly.

Air humidity. Does not play a significant role in the cultivation of this type of orchid. Especially at low temperatures.

If the cambria is in too dry air or close to heating devices, then it is recommended to raise the humidity. For example, you can put a container with water or wet expanded clay near a flower pot. Or spray the air around the leaves of the plant daily. Water should not get on the leaves themselves, in order to avoid the appearance of yellow spots.

Watering. Abundant watering is necessary during the growth of new pseudobulbs. After the pseudobulbs are fully formed, watering is sharply reduced, by about 2-3 weeks. After the appearance of a young peduncle (sprout), the orchid begins to be watered again.

The method of watering for this type of orchid is standard - by immersing the plant pot 2/3 of its height in a container with water for 20-30 minutes. The substrate should dry thoroughly before the next watering.

The approximate frequency of watering: in warm weather - 1 time per week, in cool or rain - 1 time per 2 weeks. Water should be filtered, settled or boiled, because this type of orchid subtly reacts to its quality.

Important: The basic rule is that cambria is better to dry out than to pour. Water should not fall on pseudobulbs so that they do not rot.

Top dressing. The time for feeding cambria is from the beginning of the development of young shoots to the flowering period. This orch has rather delicate roots, so the concentration of the solution must be halved than recommended according to the instructions.

Frequency - 1-2 times a month. Fertilizer is added to a container of water, into which the pot is immersed during watering. When feeding, the pot must be completely immersed in water with fertilizer.

During and after flowering, cambria is not fed until new pseudobulbs begin to grow.

Important: underfeeding is better than overfeeding. Do not get carried away with feeding!

Transfer. Frequency - once every 2-3 years. The main reasons for transplanting: caking (or salinization) of the soil and when the roots begin to bulge out of the pot. It is optimal to transplant at a time when young roots on the new bulb have not yet appeared, but only their growth is expected.

Transplanting soil is a common substrate for orchids and epiphytes of medium and fine fraction. If the air in the room is too dry, you can add, but very little, agroperlite or vermiculite to the substrate to retain moisture. You can put drainage or large pieces of bark at the bottom of the pot; you do not need to sprinkle the bulbs on top with substrate.

Plastic or ceramic pots work well. The cambrian root system does not like light (unlike phalaenopsis), so it is better not to transplant it into glass pots and pots.

After transplanting, it is recommended not to water the orchid for a week, fertilize or transfer it to another place.

Trimming and shaping. Does not need. Only faded stems and dried leaves are removed.

Bloom. The average flowering period of this type of orchid is 4-6 weeks.

Usually cambria begins to bloom after a period of rest and the so-called "drying". Drying - reducing watering by 2-3 weeks after the new pseudobulb has fully formed. During this period, the orchid is either not watered at all or very moderately.

After drying, a peduncle begins to grow from the base of the bulb and watering must be resumed. Each bulb can grow 2 new shoots (peduncles). Faded and dried peduncles are then removed.

The plant begins to form new bulbs and, after about 10-12 months, the flowering process is repeated. If instead of flowering a new bulb appears on the plant, reconsider the watering regime, most likely it is too frequent.

Reproduction. Usually cambria is propagated when new pseudobulbs cannot fit in a flowerpot. When transplanting, the bush is divided in half, so that each of the divisions has an equal number of bulbs.

Important: When dividing and replanting, do not damage the fragile roots of the cambria. It is recommended to sprinkle cuts and breaks with crushed coal.

After transplanting, the delenki are not fed or watered for a week.

Diseases and pests. Cumbria can be affected by fungal and bacterial infections. In this case, you need to remove the affected areas of the plant and treat them with a fungicide solution.

White bloom on the stems may appear due to excessive salinity of the substrate. The substrate needs to be changed, in the future, monitor water quality and reduce feeding.

Pests - orchid aphids, red spider mites, thrips. The method of struggle is the use of special preparations.

Sluggish leaves indicate insufficient watering or hypothermia.

Cumbria in winter. Protect from too dry air, do not place near heaters. Do not feed. Do not get carried away with watering.

Interesting Facts. Cambria is not a natural species that occurs in nature. This is the commercial collective name for orchids that are bred specifically for indoor growing.

PHOTOS OF CAMBRIA

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