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A winter day is very short. And there is a lot that needs to be done. But let’s talk about everything in order.
During the winter months it is necessary to:
• shake snow off the branches of trees and shrubs, especially after heavy snowfalls;
• protect coniferous and deciduous trees and shrubs from temperature fluctuations;
• during a thaw, trample the snow around the trunks of trees;
• cover flower beds and alpine slides with snow;
• protect fruit trees from rodents;
• carry out early whitewashing of tree trunks to protect from sunburn;
• monitor the storage of tuberous and bulbous plants;
• check how potatoes, cabbage, daikon, black radish, as well as preserves are stored in the cellar;
• make bird feeders and regularly add feed to them in order to protect the garden in spring from pests;
• prepare shoots for plant grafting.
In winter, prolonged snowfalls are not uncommon. What a joy for children! You can go sledding down the hill and ski through the forest. And the garden is extraordinarily beautiful at this time — everything is covered with a snow blanket. Plantings of garlic, onions, flowers — under a thick layer of snow, there is no need to add snow to flower beds and alpine slides.
But fruit trees in the garden at this time are in danger: their branches can easily break under the weight of the snow. Therefore, it is better to shake it off young fruit and coniferous trees by slightly shaking the trunk.
And large trees can be gently tapped with a stick. Particular attention should be paid to conifers: under the weight of the snow, branches bend and break in delicate junipers, thuja, and cypresses. Therefore, it is better to take care of this in advance and tie the crowns with a rope, and then cover them with nonwoven material. This simple shelter will help avoid another trouble — the appearance of sunburn.
Experienced gardeners know that fruit trees can freeze and even die not only in severe, but also in relatively mild winters. And the degree of their damage is related not only to varietal characteristics, but also to the duration and intensity of thaws, which are typical for modern winters.
At this time, sunburns on fruit trees are not uncommon. They appear in the form of a light stripe on the bark of young trees and thin branches.
Burns can be avoided by protecting young trees from direct sunlight. For this, hilling with snow, wrapping trunks with various materials, as well as whitewashing are used. For wrapping, it is necessary to use materials of white or light tones.
Whitewashing is best done on a sunny day and make sure that the solution of chalk or lime dries well on the trunk, and does not freeze, which can damage the cells of the bark. At the same time, one should not be overly enthusiastic about whitewashing, since it negatively affects the vital activity of plants, especially in gardens with excessive moisture. And for trees located on northern slopes, whitewashing is generally impractical.
During severe frosts, so-called frost cracks appear on the bark and wood of fruit trees — deep longitudinal cracks. This especially happens after a wet autumn. In waterlogged areas, there are usually more damaged trees. Frost cracks can be quite wide and long, they can stretch along the entire trunk. It has been noticed that they occur, oddly enough, on autumn and winter varieties of apple trees more often than on summer ones. There have been cases when under the weight of the harvest in summer and autumn the tree split exactly along these cracks. Therefore, if they appear, the affected area of the tree must be covered with garden pitch, and then wrapped with nonwoven material.
Attention should be paid to possible icing of the bark of fruit trees. An ice crust most often forms in the middle or at the end of winter, when after strong thaws a sharp cooling occurs and the melted snow forms a crust and freezes on the surface of the tree.
A layer of ice causes mechanical damage to the bark of seedlings and young trees. Later, pathogens of various diseases settle in these wounds. To avoid this, the ice must be carefully removed. And if the tree is young, wrap the trunk with nonwoven material. This will also help protect young trees from uninvited guests: hares, mice, and rats that like to feast on young bark.
In the winter months, it is necessary not to forget to prepare shoots of fruit trees for future grafting. Experienced gardeners know that it is necessary to select trees in advance from which the graft will be taken.
Only young, healthy branches from the illuminated part of the tree should be used. The air temperature at the time of cutting should not be lower than -10°C. It has been noticed that this particular temperature contributes to the best hardening of annual shoots. Mature shoots are best suited, the diameter of which is not less than 5–6 mm, they should have an apical growth bud, as well as lateral leaf buds.
After the shoots are cut and tied, they should be placed for storage. For this, they are placed in a clean plastic bag and put on the north side of the house or shed, and covered with snow on top and compacted.
Cut shoots can also be stored in the refrigerator. In this case, they must first be wrapped in damp burlap, and then in paper. After that, the bundles are placed in polyethylene. Periodically, it is necessary to check the shoots in order to prevent their drying out or the development of mold.